Askinosie Chocolate 34% White and 75% Dark

Who would ever have thought I would get to taste two chocolates with goat’s milk in one lifetime? Not I. (Choco-Lina was the other one.) Askinosie, the first small-batch chocolate maker in the U.S. (Springfield, Mo) to make white chocolate from the bean, has a bar with goat’s milk, and it’s pretty, to boot.  The goat’s milk lends a hint of dulce de leche flavor and a light caramel color. The Trinitario beans are sourced from Soconusco Mexico. If I close my eyes and imagine that I’m eating some new candy I like the subtlety; but, if I have to call it chocolate I’m completely thrown.  It’s my own deeply ingrained prejudice against white chocolate.  The big crime is that it’s not dark.  That said, if you like white chocolate and feel adventurous this would fit the bill.  The packaging is just fabulous, a creamy ivory-colored paper with a lovely label and rustic string at the top.

The 75% bar is also made from Trinitario beans from Soconusco, Mexico, but is as different from the white bar as night and day.  To start, the color is very dark, it has a nice shine, and a pretty clean break.  The texture is a little chewy, but I like that.  It feels like the real thing.  Don’t ask me how they achieve this, but there’s both a creaminess and a slightly dry after-taste.  The juxtaposition of these two different mouth-feels is novel and pleasing.  My favorite chocolates are so satisfying that a relatively small amount sates all cravings (at least, for a while). This bar has the complexity, on all levels, to achieve that.  The artisanal packaging is the same as the white bar, but the paper is brown.

Both products, and a dark rendition with nibs, are available from Zingerman’s.

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