Dark milk bars are a bit trendy, but some are so good that I’ve suspended my natural skepticism (see my review of Slitti’s Lattenero).
Chocolat Bonnat is a very reputable French company, so it’s surprising that these bars are boring, banal, and bland. Unlike Slitti’s offerings, with their very dark complexion, these are all light. It really strains credibility to think they have a cacao content of 65%. I would have expected a more intense flavor. It’s not that they’re sugary, but the fatty mouth feel is reminiscent of a traditional milk chocolate. After carefully reading the wrapper it occurred to me that these bars are not really dark milk but, rather, a concoction of 65% milk chocolate and 35% cocoa butter. There’s no other explanation I can imagine for the pale color and unctuous taste.
It’s a bit disheartening when a company of Bonnat’s stature produces something so pedestrian. Who would enjoy this? People don’t buy Bonnat chocolate (at least, in the U.S.) for their little ones, but only a child could like this milky substance.
There’s so much excellent chocolate out there, save your money and buy some Valrhona Palmira or even a Green and Black’s 70% Dark bar.